Up early again and after a quick breakfast in the hotel we
were out and going. The night wasn’t so great as the AC clearly couldn’t keep
up, the beds were small and the duvet wasn’t even as wide as the bed! Local
standards are clearly different depending on where you travel. I thought the
CEC had the slowest elevator in existence but clearly I was wrong. David and I
have discovered the servant’s stairs and as long as we are not completely
overcome with the heat that is the preferable option. As my kids would say,
first world problems! Discussing with our fellow travellers at breakfast we
discovered that everyone had pretty much the same kind of night but all were in
good humour to start the day. Everyone exchanged stories about their Prague
“finds” and we ended up with several tips on good local places to eat. I am
reminded again of why I LOVE digital photography! Everyone had cameras out to
show pictures of the restaurants so we had spellings and addresses and didn’t
have to rely on anyone’s Czech! Before we leave we will be dining at Kolkovna
on Siroka with the blue awning and the Black Kat at the corner by the old
Jewish cemetery. Knowing where our next meal is coming from is very important!
Our city tour this morning was fabulous with a very
knowledgeable older Czech woman. She knew the city and the history well, was
very thoughtful in her pacing given the heat, and perhaps most interesting had
lived through the journey from communism and willingly shared a personal
perspective. Crossing one of the ten bridges on our way to Prague Castle, we
learned about the reference to the Old Town and the New Town. Seems quite easy
to understand until you realize that “new town” refers to the section built in
the 14th century – it’s all about perspective. We had some great
views of Charles Bridge, built by Charles IV in 1357 and richly decorated with
30 statues of various saints. The Gothic entrance gate is incredible and gives
a hint of just how spectacular the bridge really is. The world’s largest
metronome that appears high above the city on the other side of the Vltava
River, opposite from our hotel room, also has an interesting story. When yet
another statue of Stalin was toppled, the people of Prague were left with a
giant empty platform that was costly and far too difficult to move. They set
about deciding what should be erected in the statue’s place and they struggled
with consensus. As a temporary measure, until they could agree, they decided to
create the world’s largest metronome, representing the city of music and the
changing times for the people of the Czech Republic as they moved from
communism into capitalism! The working sculpture keeps time with the rhythm of
the city!
Prague is called the city of 100 spires and looking down
from Prague Castle it is easy to see why. In fact, there are far more than
that! Here we revisited the story of the Habsburgs, those folks certainly got
around. Of course when you have 16 children and set out to marry all of them off
to the rulers of countries throughout Europe you are bound to show up in a
couple of stories about castles! The first Habsburg to sit on the throne here
was Ferdinand in the 5th century. The castle grounds are
spectacular, and still very much in use as the seat of government and the
residence of the current leader. We watched the changing of the guard, visited
St. Vitas Gothic Cathedral where three of the Habsburgs are buried, saw
beautiful views of Prague and wished that we had more time to spend in the many
museums and displays throughout the castle grounds. There were familiar sights
as well since Les Miserables was filmed at Prague Castle, as was Amadeus.
Interesting story there since the director was Czech and hired locals including
the costume designer. The army uniforms for the movie were so popular that he
then had new uniforms made for the actual Czech army! They are the ones we saw
today during the changing of the guards. We learned about Good King Wenceslas,
considered by many the Patron Saint of Prague, and visited the church that bears
his name. We learned about the customary way of dealing with dissenters of the
past, as we looked out on courtyards where people were thrown from castle
windows high above! Oh the good ol’ days!
As we moved on our bus from one location to another we were
fascinated on hearing about the move from communism. According to our guide,
they were more fortunate that many people at the time as travel from Prague,
while not common, was not impossible. She, however, had always wanted to study
history and that wasn’t an option. Women were allowed to attend university in
the 60s but were only allowed to study economics (??). Strange ideas to us that
seem to be without reason yet that was the Czech reality. We learned that there
were of course many formal laws and rules but the unwritten laws were perhaps
the most fascinating. For example, it was not necessary that everyone join the
communist party. The need to belong was intimately linked to your influence in
the community. For example, teachers were not mandated to be a card carrying
communist but principals were! And we thought no longer being part of OECTA was
a big deal!!! Our guide admitted that there have been struggles that have come
with greater freedom. The graffiti that is unfortunately very common on most
public buildings here was not present during communist rule, nor were the beggars
that are now common in the Square and along city streets. While artifacts that
can be proven to have been taken during communist rule (not including during
the war) have been returned to individual owners, thefts from churches,
graveyards and other public sites has increased significantly. Every freedom
has a price. The Communist Party still receives about 10% of the democratic vote
(interesting notion in itself!) and always forms part of the opposition.
Back on the other side of the river we passed the oldest
Orthodox Jewish synagogue in Europe. In use since 1270, it sits on the corner
across from the town hall of the Jewish Quarter that has two clocks in the
tower, one with Roman numbers and one marked in Hebrew. We passed a statue of J.M. Hus who dared to
challenge the Church on its middle-aged understanding of indulgences. He was
called to Constance (Germany) to defend his position where he was in fact,
burned as a heretic. We were pointed to the site of the crosses woven into the
Old Town Square cobblestones, marking the public execution of town leaders
during the Thirty Years’ War. Once again I say, the good ol’ days! Despite their
somewhat brutal history, the administrators of Prague clearly have a sense of
humour. Where else would you find a building that has been zoned to contain a Museum
of Communism, a casino and a McDonalds?!!
To our delight, after a very quick turn around with lunch at
Kolkovna, our afternoon tour bus arrived with the same guide! We travelled
about an hour into the Czech countryside, through the central volcanic
highlands, to the little town of Terezín. Terezín has both a large fortress (complete
with moat!) and small fortress and is the site of a former Nazi concentration
camp in the large fortress and a Nazi prison in the smaller one. One of the
first sights to demand attention as we approached this little town was the huge
graveyard with 10,000 graves marked under an enormous Christian cross and an
equally large Star of David. This was the former small fortress and the site of
the Nazi prison. Where the concentration camp held Jews waiting for transfer to
the not yet completed extermination camp at Auschwitz,
the Gestapo prison for resistors held all those who dared to challenge the
Third Reich. Those who died during the prison torture were buried together, Gentile
and Jew, in the yard outside the fort. Following the war, the cross and star
were erected and grave markers were placed to recognize those who died. When ancient
Jewish people perished in the desert, stones were placed on the grave to mark
the site. It has remained a Jewish custom to this day for visitors to mark
graves with a small rock placed on the tombstone, much as a Christian might adorn
a graveside with flowers. This graveyard, in a striking tribute to both
traditions, maintains rosebushes between the graves and the flat nameplates
that mark the graves are peppered with small stones. It causes goosebumps to
remember as I write this; you can only imagine the feeling as we stood in this incredible
testament to the human fight for what is right and just.
The concentration camp visit was somber and fascinating. As
we wandered through the stark and ugly shell I was very much aware of my
freedom in wandering wherever I chose. I actually wondered about the lack of direction
within the site where we could just wander at will. More accustomed to museum
sites that controlled traffic flow, has signs that directs you not to touch and
velvet ropes that prevent you from entering certain areas; this was very
different. Perhaps in opening the site for tourists someone thought of that and
realized what a powerful sense that it might create. Perhaps not, and that is
just my flight of fancy, but I was certainly acutely aware that my experience was
heighted as a result. The more formal museum display that was also contained
within the walls is a tribute to the almost 100,000 Jewish people who died
there. People captured and killed, judged because of the religious beliefs of
their grandparents! Interestingly, many artists were interred at Terezín.
There were enough accomplished musicians there to create two full symphony orchestras.
The stairs leading to a second storey were lined with children’s art work like
you might see in any primary school hallway. The dark nature of many of the
drawings was the only hint to kids with childhood experiences not like our own.
Many of the displays were evidence of this talent, including a poem written by
a 14 year old boy who later died at Auschwitz.
A little garden
Fragrant and full of
roses.
The path is narrow
And a little boy walks
along it.
A little boy, a sweet
boy
Like that growing
blossom.
When the blossom comes
to bloom
The little boy will be
no more.
Frantísek
Bass (1930-1944)
Our trip back to Prague was, without a doubt the quietest we
experienced on the entire vacation.
Back at the hotel with only time to freshen up I jokingly
asked our guide if she was bringing the group to the dinner and folklore show that
evening and she confirmed that indeed she was! What luck for us to have this
wonderful lady to guide us from morning til night. With few exceptions, the
local guides that Avalon provided have been outstanding. The two who were not
outstanding were very good! This lady was a good as it gets! Just as we started
to board the bus the rain began. By the time we had driven through the city and
were halfway to our destination the rain had turned to a torrential downpour
and rapids of water were rushing down the hill toward us. In the more level
spots flash flooding had happened and cars were stranded in water covering the
bumper. Storm sewers were lifted and the rain continued to fall in heavy
sheets. Given the recent news of the devastation of flood waters in Europe,
Alberta and even at home in the GTA, we were beginning to become a little
nervous. Our driver jokingly told us to hold our feet up and continued through
the newly created lakes arriving at our destination without incident. However, Mother
Nature did provide quite a show for the trip!
That wasn’t the only show we were to see this night! The
Folklore Dinner and Show was amazing. We spent the evening eating traditional
Czech food (lots of potatoes, cabbage and bacon), drinking beer and wine poured
from a wine pipette! The wine actually wasn’t very good but watching the
steward release his finger from the bottom of the pipette and shoot the wine
from across the table, flowing from the globe resting on his shoulder, was
worth drinking so-so wine! Oh and did I mention he had red in one hand and
white in the other? A traditional band played Czech folksongs and universal sing-a-long
numbers from all over the globe, a marvelous vocalist led the singing, and dancers
in traditional costume added to the celebration. It was a grand evening and a
perfect end to a perfect day.
Building with architectural features like this are very common in Prague. First we thought they were painted. In fact they have two layers of plaster, a dark coat below and a lighter one on top. When the plaster hardens the pattern is etched into the building. Talk about labour intensive, artistic work! The results are stunning.
Changing of the guard at the top of every hour at the entrance to the palace at Prague Castle.
I like a good cup of coffee as well as the next fella but being constructed at the top of Prague Castle - a defilement!
Spectactular stained glass windows in St. Vitas Cathedral.
The Castle Cathedral.
St. George slaying the dragon. He was only a little guy!
The oblisk can be seen here too.
Poor Moses doesn't look any too happy!
Apparently no cruise would be complete with a Diamonds International sighting!
Cabbage pancakes - yum!
The sign marking the concentration camp.
The Nazi Prison graveyard.
Graves marked in both traditions.
"Work makes you free"
The concentration camp.
Folk entertainment.
The wine steward pouring wine across the table into David's glass! Never spilled a drop - notice the white tablecloths!
