Our first tour of the day began by 8:30 and we walked with
our guide through this charming medieval town. The tour offered an orientation
and overview and then we were given time to explore on our own. These times to
just poke about are our favourite but there never seems to be enough time. I’m
already planning our return trip! Mom and Dad had their own exploration as
Avalon provided what they called the choo-choo! Well named, it was little
trolley cars pulled through town by a tractor. Dürnstein in the heart of the
Wachau Valley is a well preserved medieval town of about 900 inhabitants that
clearly rely heavily on tourism and also on the tiered vineyards that surround
the town. As well as grapes, apricots grow profusely here. The shops are filled
with everything “marille”, from jam (called Marillenmarmelade, apparently the
German language has no word for jam?), to soap and cosmetics. Every liquor
known to man is also produced from these local apricots. The town has more than
just shops to entertain though. Incredibly picturesque, the Alpine foothills
that surround the town has, as do all little towns along the valley, a
beautiful church at its centre and a castle overlooking the town. In this
instance the castle is where King Richard I, aka Richard the Lionhearted, was
held captive in 1193. At least while imprisoned he had a wonderful view! Everywhere
we looked there was another fascinating sight but two are certainly worth
mentioning.
In the centre of town there is a tall pole. Our guide
stopped here to share its origins. Apparently a type of humiliation pole, people were chained to it during the
middle-ages and taunted, beaten, stoned or even put to death for crimes against
the community. Being put to death would lead to our next point of interest, the
local graveyard! Still very much in use today, the graveyard situated on the
shallow soil of the steep Alpine slopes provides a challenge for burial. Family plots are used, but burial is shallow
and quite quickly space is filled. The solution? A Bone House! As bodies
decompose and only bones remain, they are removed when the grave is again
required. They are sanitized and stacked in a bone house – quite literally a
crypt room at the centre of the graveyard. Not sure the picture will do it
justice but trust me, fascinating stuff!
On leaving Dürnstein we had the choice of a bike
tour vs. cruising down the river. I would have very much preferred the bike
ride but the 40° temperature was a huge deterrent. Our reward for having
made the right decision was some of the most beautiful scenery! I realize that
I say this so often when I travel but the people of the Wachau Valley can certainly
enter the argument for bragging rights! Passing village after village, the
splendor of the Benedictine Melk Abbey appeared on the horizon, bringing into
question perhaps the meaning of poverty and simple life! In true Baroque style,
simplicity and restraint were conspicuous by their absence. The monastery was
unbelievably opulent and it wasn’t hard to believe that the ruling monarchs preferred
to stay with the local monks rather than in an inn when they travelled, in
their “humble” palace with its complex of rooms surrounding seven courtyards,
all encircled by spectacular gardens! Our tour led us through the Imperial wing,
where Empress Maria Theresa and Napoleon once stayed, and where Marie Antoinette
rested on her way to France to marry the King and increase the Hapsburg
dynasty! Everything that we have seen and heard here makes me so wish I had
paid more attention in history class! The library here was unbelievable and
houses about 85,000 printed books and 2000 illuminated manuscripts. I believe
you could spend a lifetime here and never notice everything there was to see.
Every room, every corner, every roofline held an architectural treasure that
defies description!
Back on the boat for a wine tasting of the liquid treasures
to the Wachau Valley, led by a local vintner, dinner with Con and Vicky who
have lived in Australia for 60 years but never lost their accents from Greece,
and our local entertainer in the lounge following dinner, rounded out the day!
Strolling on the sky deck under the full before bed we
learned from the receptionist, who was off duty and listening to her iPod under the full moon,
that this is the first cruise, on this ship, to make it all the way to Budapest
since the flood! Lucky us! While on deck we also heard a bit of a noise from
below and looked over the side to realize that the violins and other supplies
used by this evening’s entertainer were being (literally) thrown from the boat
to a set of waiting arms on shore. The boat stopped for the briefest of moments
(slowed down is almost a more accurate description!) as we saw Giorgio
Benedetti hop onto the little dock at the side of the river and wave as we continued
on our way to Linz!
The beautiful Wachau Valley.
RV Park!
Pretty Medieval Village window boxes.
Town humiliation post!
Mom and Dad
The was actually a fair bit of traffic. I have no idea how they do it.
Restaurant hidden in the hillside.
Every lane and alley is beautiful.
Local graveyard still very much used. The Bone House is in the centre.
Inside the Bone House. Mostly femers and skulls visable!
The beautiful, blue church spire stands above the town.
St. Michael's church dates back to 400AD offering blessings of good harvest and fertility! I got out of their fast!!
Melk Abbey halls.
Melk Abbey - ceiling fresco in the marble dining room - apparently what a vow of poverty and simplicity got you at the time!
Baroque church at the Abbey - St. Stephen (again!)
Inside St. Stephen. The main altar has gold statues depicting the stoning of St. Stephen. As he looks up the fresco above shows the heavens opening for St. Stephen at his death.
Very ornate gold leaf throughout the church.
Dome fresco
Organ (Nancy & Jamie)
Stairs leading from the library to the church.
One of the seven courtyards at the Abbey.
How fortunate your timing was for this cruise! And can you imagine trying to navigate around these medieval towns in a car? Or a bus? River cruising is certainly the way to go. I am enjoying your photos but could you include some of the scenery at the river? I want to be able to visualize the whole trip. I appreciate the historical facts you're sharing and amazed that can remember it all.
ReplyDeleteLiz when I'm on the river I'm looking and bloggging and that's all I can manage! David has lots of river pictures that I'm sure he will be happy to share when we get home. I will try though to see what I can do in the meantime!
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