Vienna Day 2

So I have already reached the part of the trip where so much happens in a day that when I settle down to blog at day’s end I don’t know where to begin or what happened when! We awoke this morning in Vienna and immediately after breakfast began our formal tour of the city. We decided to join the “gentle walkers” tour so we could see Mom and Dad safely through Vienna and when they were safely back on board to head out to explore the city on our own.

Our tour covered the high points and gave us our bearings for navigating the city on our own. By the time the guide left with the “gentle walkers” we knew how to access an ATM, where to find the subway, how to get to a bathroom, and had several major landmarks to orient ourselves as we explored – what more do you need.

Vienna is a city that at first glance, appears to be no different than any other large urban centre. That could allow you to not notice the many details that are beautifully fascinating about Vienna. The downtown square radiates out from St. Stephen’s cathedral. St. Stephan’s was first consecrated in 1146. Like much of Austria and Hungary, Hitler has altered our experience of history since so much was damaged during the Second World War. I’m not sure that I mentioned that all of the bridges that link Buda and Pest were destroyed during the German retreat from the city. As they left the city, they blew up all of the bridges behind them to ensure their safe retreat! While we have a great sense of history as we travel these 1000+ year old cities we are reminded that much of what we see was in fact re-created in the last 50-60 years! St. Stephan’s is no exception. The repair is evident in many areas of the church simply by noticing the change in colour between one section of stone work and another. The roof is another glorious display of the glazed ceramic that is so often displayed here.  Interesting to clarify also that this St. Stephen is not the same St. Stephen, first King of Hungary for whom their basilica is named. This poor fellow was stoned and, in case anyone should forget, the scene is captured in a giant fresco that adorns the main altar!

St. Stephen is not the oldest church in Vienna. St. Peters has been here since 400, a beautiful old building in the process of being restored. Like many restorations here, the scaffolding is marred by a huge billboard ad. So sad but obviously important revenue for the local church!

The formal tour brought us through to the centre of Vienna, past a modern highrise building that has a system of exterior lights that are designed to give the effect of a screen saver the entire size of the building. Apparently at the end of March this year it appeared as if Easter eggs danced around the building at night!

The UN also has an office here is Vienna with 3000 employees. Our guide explained his perfect English by telling us that his mother was an American from Erie Pennsylvania who worked for the UN. He was very thankful for that, not so much because he was perfectly bilingual, but because she could always get Kraft peanut butter at the store established for UN employees to allow them purchases from home. Apparently you don’t get peanut butter in Austria except on the rare occasion when you happen to find a ridiculously expensive jar of Skippy!

We saw the oldest Ferris wheel in the world with seats that look like train cars. In two of the cars there are apparently tables and chairs. They can be reserved for dinner. Each time those cars get to the bottom of the wheel the doors are opened by the waiter and another course is served and the glasses refilled! Neat idea but they would have to do better than that to get me on a Ferris wheel! This is also the site of their annual New Year’s Eve tradition. Much like the ball drop in NYC I imagine. Here a giant clock is placed in the middle of the wheel counting down to midnight. The city of Vienna offers free dance classes throughout the city on December 31^st so that folks can touch up their waltz. At midnight every radio, TV and broadcast system in Vienna plays The Blue Danube and everyone in Vienna grabs the nearest partner and waltzes into the new year!

Passing the statue erected to Johann Strauss we learned that apparently he was known as a bit of a ladies’ man. “Quite a dark and handsome devil” is how our tour guide referred to him! He was engaged 14 times and married three times. He apparently enjoyed his popularity. Last year Vienna celebrated a Strauss festival. In an attempt to create displays and enhance local museums donations from private collections were being accepted and authenticated. During his life, Strauss was known to bestow “personal” gifts on the ladies and several people stepped forward with locks of hair to donate to the collection. During DNA authentication it was discovered that during the time of Strauss there were some cold poodles wandering around Vienna! A bit of a cad this fellow, but he sure knew how to compose a beautiful piece of music.

We learned that one of the statues has been erected to the Russian soldier. Vienna agreed to forever maintain the statue when the allied troops moved out in 1955 to once again allow Austria to return to a free state.

The city water from local taps here is outstanding! Throughout the city are fountains encouraging people to hydrate. The water comes from Alps feed springs and tastes just as you would imagine it!

The parliament buildings here in Vienna have a very obvious Greek influence. The architect studied in Greece and since it was the birthplace of democracy, designed the local government buildings to reflect what has become universally recognized as Greek architecture.

University education is free here is Austria and the campus winds through the downtown core, resembling campuses that are familiar sights for us.

The stores in the streets that radiate out from St. Stephen’s are familiar names. Gucci, Boss, Channel, Tiffany, then H&M and Forever 21, and of course Swarovski, and all interspersed with local shops, most selling cheesy souvenirs of everything Mozart! Of course there is always the side story and we learned that rents here in the heart of Vienna are astronomical! Swarovski, for example, pays 20,000 €/month in rent! These shops were once the location for exclusive dress shops selling Viennese ball gowns and at that time had upper floors that were reserved for exclusive customers. The ornate lifts will still bring you to the upper floors but the merchandize is now geared to us commoners!

When Starbucks first came to Vienna they opened 14 locations. Viennese are proud and fond of their coffee and believe that coffee should taste like, well, coffee! Cinnamon and vanilla lattes are not appreciated and in very short time 11 of the locations closed leaving three shops that are frequented by “tourists who don’t know any better”!

Of course, peppered throughout the area are many little cafes and restaurants. We enjoyed a lovely lunch of rich Viennese fare washed down with cool local ale and wandered through the city until the heat of the afternoon drove us to the shelter of the underground to begin to make our way back to our air conditioned boat.

Being able to understand a little German, we noticed that the underground line passed the Prater. We knew from the earlier tour that this was the park the housed the Ferris wheel and local amusement park. We came up for a stroll through the park before continuing on the line to Vodergarten and coming up by St Francis of Assisi church. Located in the city district dedicated to Mexico, the area is in honour of Mexico for being the only country to support Austria in their quest for independence and opposition to the Nazi Party leading up to the war.

Once back on board the boat, the time in the afternoon sun dictated a nap and after freshening up we joined Tim and Gert Maloney from Arizona for dinner. The entertainment tonight was imported from Bratislava and was quite good. Blogging as we set sail for Dürnstein ended another perfect day.

St. Stephen

Bishop of the Cathedral remember for founding the Vienna Boys Choir.

Crypt of Frederick III

Now that's an ambo!

A footbridge that has been used since 1234!

Another local delight!

H & M doesn't look like this at home!

A church dating back to 400AD covered with a billboard for advertising revenue.

Public restrooms are underground and (my fellow Newfoundlanders will understand) "the parking's free but you pays to pee".

An attendant takes your coin and uses a huge iron key to unlock a stall that houses a toilet & sink. Marble and wood with brass fittings the stall water closet is cleaned between customers - quite fancy.

There are fountains and sculptures on every corner, down every alley, and every window and rooftop is decorative! I know we didn't see even a fraction of what's there.

World's largest Ferris wheel in Prater.

St. Francis beside our dock and was hardly mentioned! In Vienna the sights are so outstanding a little place like this doesn't get a mention.