Regensburg - My Favourite!

Today was a nice leisurely start. I was awake at my regular time and had plenty of opportunity to see the “optional tour” groups off on the side of nowhere! Last evening our tour director Danielle told us that we would be stopping along the river to meet a tour guide in an “unofficial” spot. She said we would know the field when we spotted two cows and a chicken. She wasn’t off by much. In the early morning light (I suspect also true at mid- and late-day!) we stopped the boat in the middle of nowhere and about 2/3 of the passengers walked off into a field to apparently find their guide for the day directly behind the aforementioned two cows and a chicken!

The rest of us remained on board to continue to Regensburg, the next stop on our tour. Being up to watch the first groups off, I remained on deck and appreciated the picturesque vistas along the Danube. The peace and tranquility of the early morning was a perfect backdrop to the villages waking, the fisherman hopefully perched on the side of the river, and sights such as the Valhalla – the monument honouring the great men of German history.

By late morning we arrived in Regensburg and began, as we have in other stops along the way, a great overview city tour. A settlement was established here by the Romans in the 2^nd century! The ancient wall is still clearly evident throughout the town and the creation of Regensburg as a modern city of 50,000 people has incorporated the wall and mastered an incredible blend of the old with the new. Our wonderful tour guide explained that in Regensburg, what you see is very much what you get. Strict building, renovation and preservation laws control the town. Incredibly Regensburg suffered almost no damage during the wars, pillage and conquest that besieged so much of the rest of Europe and in an attempt to authentically preserve that history any new construction must blend with the old but not make any attempt to replicate it. Buildings must not appear to be old unless they really are and it’s clear that the locals take great pride in their town.

Once again I’m amazed that, as we pause while the guide provides some fascinating back story, I can notice a building clearly marked as dating back to 1606 and it doesn’t even warrant a glance or a mention! Being with a guide does really help to understand local culture and explain curious happenings. We learned, for example, that Friday is wedding day in Regensburg and that when couples are married the wedding party will then parade through the streets – quite beautiful as they passed by. We also came to know that when the happy couple leaves at the end of the celebration the tin cans tied to the back of their car make one heck of a racket on cobblestones! We learned that the coat of arms that is beside each door post the coat of arms of the current owner. When property changes hands the new owners update the stone carving at the door – talk about significant moving costs! Each building here has a front door that enters on one street and another that exits from another. This has been added to the buildings over the years to aid with fire emergency. When a fire call comes, two crews respond, one at each door, minimizing the chance of damage to the building. Each of the buildings also contain a central courtyard and our guide assured us that we are welcome to walk into these building and exit through the second entrance as a way to criss-cross the town!

Making our way to the centre of town we arrived at St. Peter’s Cathedral. An imposing edifice dating back six centuries, the necessary repairs over the ages are evident. Though skillfully done to create an attractive completion, the laws about not repairing something to appear old, sets a clear delineation for repair history. Again because there has been so little damage through the ages, the stained glass in the church is original and dates back 700 years! After the formal tour ended it was wonderful to go back to the church and explore on our own. With the group it was certainly more challenging for David to take good pictures. When we went back later on our own we were able to wander unencumbered around the grounds, through side alleys and discover some of the many details that were missed first time through.

After the formal tour we were dropped, with a coupon, at The Sausage Kitchen. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in all of Bavaria, we were given a lunch of beer, sausage, sauerkraut, grainy mustard and crusty bread – delicious and very filling. Across the street from The Sausage Kitchen we found a shop that offered local treasures including cuckoo clocks and beautiful jewelry from local artisans. Coeur de Leon, one such company has me sporting a beautiful new pair of earrings!

A wonderful, if hot, spot to wander and explore and I am now completely convinced that wandering on your own through Europe is easily done. A local gelatti shop held a cool delicious treat we enjoyed on the old stone bridge before once again hoping onboard to continue our trip to Nuremberg.

Some of our fellow passangers being let out in a field on the side of the Danube - literally. Our cruise director said we would know where, "the field with two cows and a chicken!"

Valhalla - erected to the great men of German history.

Our first view of Rengensburg.

Sculpture at the dock of 200 fish representing 2000 years of Regensburg history.

A Swarovski tour boat completely decorated inside and out with crystals! Talk about glittering in the sun!!

Old town bridge.

Oh if the walls could talk!

Pretty town square.

The ornate carving on St Peter's is unbelievable.

 

Hat shops still easy to find.

Tiny cobblestone streets are shared by people, bikes, and traffic!

What remains of the old Roman wall has been incorporated into buildings.

A Regensburg highrise!

Door to a home, how they got furniture in is beyond me!

Lunch at the Sausage Kitchen.

 

Roman door in the current town hall.

Roman wall again. It was easy to see when you knew to look for it.

Wall again appeared on our evening walk.

The walking path beside the dock.